Climbing in the Sauerland most of the time means climbing in abandoned quarries. This has many advantages. Approaches are short, the base is kids-friendly and the climbing is very diverse. What may be unknown it that the Sauerland contains the largest climbing spot in North Rhine-Westphalia. As well, there are several spots where you can multipitch. Last but not least, one of the hardest routes of the region is situated in the Sauerland as well: “Katharsis” (UIAA 10+). Lot’s of stuff to do. The main spots are:
- Warstein – Hillenberg and Oberhagen
Details about single climbing spots
Warstein by now offers two climbing spots: the Hillenberg and Oberhagen. That makes it one of the hotspots of climbing in the Sauerland. The Hillenberg opened in 2013. Thanks to many hours of community work, it contains around more than 100 routes by now. Thanks to its 45m hight, multi pitching is possible. Oberhagen, on the other hand, is a spot that is being developed at the moment. With its 250 routes, it will become the largest climbing spot in North Rhine-Westphalia. Hopefully, it will open in Summer 2020
The Elberskamp, on the other hand, is a classic climbing spot. It was developed during the 80’s and contains around 50 routes. Next to a lot of very easy routes, hardmovers will find “Katharsis”. With UIAA 10+, it is the hardest route of the region and was first ascended by Theo Konstandakopulos in 2007.
Speaking of classic spots, you have to mention Steinschab. The dominating style here is slab climbing. As the wall is approximately 50 meters high. there is even a certain amount of multipitch routes. In total, there are eleven routes, none harder than 6+ UIAA.
If you are looking for more slabs, you might be tempted to try the Werdohler Lenneplatte. Like on the Steinschab, you will find slab climbing in 90% of the routes. Difficulties might be a bit harder but still, beginners will have plenty of stuff to do. With an approach of 1,5 min., you can belay from your car basically.
Besides these examples, there are many more spots to discover. Well-known names are the Kapplerstein, Bestwig, the Steinkuhle or the Borghausener Wand to mention a few.
A great resource for news and topos is the webpage “Kletterarena” in case, you can’t find what you are looking for here.
Closed climbing areas and access issues
Like everywhere in North Rhine-Westphalia, you have to write a whole paragraph about access issues.
First of all, let’s look at lost climbing spots. The Bruchhausener Steine near Olsberg used to be one of the Sauerlands superb climbing spot. Four cliffs on a hilltop provided a great scenery. The highest one is nearly 100 meters high, so you could multipitch. With its climbing ethic of clean climbing, many future alpinists used this as a training ground for greater challenges.
The second great place, that is lost, is the Hönnetal. With its 34 crags along the river Hönne, this is a loss that cannot be compensated.
The last crag in this sad list is the Meisterstein. It rises next to a beautiful, little lake. Climbers find some easy to medium routes, some of them 45 meters long. Negotiations with the private owners did not reach a conclusion until now.
Land der tausend Berge: Kletterführer Sauerland
A german climbing guide for the whole Sauerland.Buy online here