Falkenstein

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The Falkenstein is by far the most massive climbing crag in the Sächsische Schweiz. Due to its 96 meters, it is towering over the surrounding landscape and can be seen from far away.

Around the Falkenstein, you can find many routes from 3 to 10 UIAA. Most of them are well protected, which is a rare feature in the Sächsische Schweiz.

Famous climbing routes at the Falkenstein are the “Wandl”, the “Schräger Riss” and the “Schusterweg”. The “Wandl” is by far the most often ascended route on the crag. Due to its low difficulty of 3 UIAA, many parties try it. At the top, you have to perform a so-called “Überfaller” to reach the higher of the two peaks. This means, that you have to fall to the other side. It is pretty easy but a psychological challenge for some people.

The “Schräger Riss” is situated on the south side of the crag. It is graded 4-UIAA and therefore very easy as well.

The last route, that has to be presented here is the “Schusterweg. Its six pitches (4 UIAA) take you straight through the north face. The climbing is great, the protection can be called “alpine”. The route has gained popularity not only because of the superb climbing but as well through its first ascensionist. Oscar Schuster was one of the first persons to write descriptions of climbing routes and to draw topos as well. That was back in 1984. His work lay the foundation for the first climbing guidebook ever published.

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Schusterweg, 125 meters, UIAA 4

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