Overview
The climbing spot Effels lies a bit south of Nideggen. Actually, it is not a single crag but a collection of 12 different rock faces, one after the other. In total, there are 156 routes! That makes it the largest legal climbing spot in the Nordeifel.
The approach only takes ten minutes and the crags are easy to find right beneath the hiking path. There are many trees around. Together with the large amount of faces pointing in all directions, you can always find a bit of shade, even in the summer.
Like on all the other spots around Nideggen, climbing in Effels takes place on conglomerate with a large number of pebbles in it. You will find all difficulties ranging from easy and short routes graded 2 (UIAA) to hard and exposed ones up to 9- (UIAA). The degree of bolting varies. Next to well bolted and renovated routes, you can always encounter old bolts or routes with very little protection. Every now and then, there is a trad route in between.
Climbing rules
Climbing in Effels is endangered by strict rules of the local government. You have to buy a climbing ticket, mustn’t use chalk, etc. etc. You can find more information in the “Sector Details”. Please stick to the rules to prevent further climbing bans. The climbing tickets can be bought at the Aral gas station in town or at the Nationalpark Tor. At the time of our research, the online reservation did not work at all.
However, we believe that the strategy of sticking to the rules can only be short term as it did not prevent the closure of 85% of all crags in the Nordeifel. As a minimum, you should think about whom you vote for during the next election.
Spot Details
Nideggen
Adress for the navigation system: Im Effels 8, 52385 Nideggen
You can park at the Nationalpark Tor. This is where you get climbing tickets as well.
Navigate to parkingNext train station is Niedeggen Brück. From here, you can walk for approx. 40 minutes to the address of the parking. It is a few times to the left and to the right. Best will be to use your smartphone for navigation.
Cross the Jugendherberge on the right side. You will reach the main hiking trail. Follow it to the south and you will easily find the Effels crags after a couple of minutes.
Sector Details
There is a whole bunch of rules that have to be respected in order to prevent further climbing bans. The most important rules are: - Buy a climbing ticket (Details ticket sale) - No chalk - No new routes - No bivys - Respect the signs to protect nesting birds. - A full list can be assessed at the website of the city of Niedeggen
-
01
Amselriss8-Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
02
Drosselspirale7Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
03
Kookabura5Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
04
Bananenweg3Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
05
Heißer September5+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
06
Terassenwändchen links3Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
07
Terassenwändchen rechts3Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
08
Stichprobe5-
You may use some gear in the upper crack
Good+bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
09
447
In the lower part, there used to be a fixpiece. We couldn't find it anymore. Better use some gear.
Good+bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
10
Line Light8Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
11
Wampe7-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
12
Eimer und Schäufelchen7-
Use some gear in the lower part
Good+bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
5 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
13
Piazwändchen3None
No gear in place
5 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
14
Nasobem6-Very Poor
occasional fix piece, bolt or belay
5 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
15
Flatterhemd5Very Poor
occasional fix piece, bolt or belay
5 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
16
WPI Verschneidung3
Started behind the rocks. It does not exist anymore as the Boulderwändchen crashed down.
NoneNo gear in place
5 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
17
Boulderwand7-
Starts behind the rocksIt does not exist anymore as the Boulderwändchen crashed down.Starts behind the rocks
NoneNo gear in place
5 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
18
Pinocchio5-
It does not exist anymore as the Boulderwändchen crashed down.
NoneNo gear in place
5 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed
Bolting eats cash.
Writing topos eats time.
Say thanks and buy a beer for
Alex
Sector Details
There is a whole bunch of rules that have to be respected in order to prevent further climbing bans. The most important rules are: - Buy a climbing ticket (Details ticket sale) - No chalk - No new routes - No bivys - Respect the signs to protect nesting birds. - A full list can be assessed at the website of the city of Niedeggen
-
01
Unknown route6
If you have any information about the name, please write us a message.
Good+bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
02
Bergwächter5+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
03
Schröls Kreuz6+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
04
Schwuppdiwupp6+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
05
Zwischenmahlzeit5+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
06
Nadelriss5-None
No gear in place
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
07
SPD7Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
14 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
08
Halloween8Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
14 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
09
Rotznas6+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
14 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
10
Kniescheibe8Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
14 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
11
Burg im Rücken7+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
14 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
12
Nibelungen4Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
14 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
13
Spargeltarzan7Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
14 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
14
Würg7Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
14 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
15
Siechfried6+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
14 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
16
Alberich5-
Pretty dangerous
Averagebolt every 6-10m, belays always set up
14 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed
Bolting eats cash.
Writing topos eats time.
Say thanks and buy a beer for
Alex
Sector Details
There is a whole bunch of rules that have to be respected in order to prevent further climbing bans. The most important rules are: - Buy a climbing ticket (Details ticket sale) - No chalk - No new routes - No bivys - Respect the signs to protect nesting birds. - A full list can be assessed at the website of the city of Niedeggen
-
01
Gecko7-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
02
Grüner Drache7-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
03
Holzwurmriss6-Very Poor
occasional fix piece, bolt or belay
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
04
Holzwurmriss Direkter Einstieg6-Very Poor
occasional fix piece, bolt or belay
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
05
Sex in Bad Tölz7-Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
06
Salvatore5+Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
07
Fishermans Friend7+/8-Average
bolt every 6-10m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
08
Kir Royal6-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
09
Nirwana Blues6Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
10
Sylvesterweg7-Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
11
Direkter Ausstieg6-Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
12
Vergebliche Müh6+Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
13
Birkenriss6+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
14
Zappzarapp8Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
15
Salombo6Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed
Bolting eats cash.
Writing topos eats time.
Say thanks and buy a beer for
Alex
Sector Details
There is a whole bunch of rules that have to be respected in order to prevent further climbing bans. The most important rules are: - Buy a climbing ticket (Details ticket sale) - No chalk - No new routes - No bivys - Respect the signs to protect nesting birds. - A full list can be assessed at the website of the city of Niedeggen
-
01
Zwerg Nase5-
Boulder around the corner. Forget it.
NoneNo gear in place
5 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
02
Linker Weg6Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
03
Frei ab 187-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
04
Direkte Karmuckenwand6-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
05
Rechte Karmuckenwand6-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed
Bolting eats cash.
Writing topos eats time.
Say thanks and buy a beer for
Alex
Sector Details
There is a whole bunch of rules that have to be respected in order to prevent further climbing bans. The most important rules are: - Buy a climbing ticket (Details ticket sale) - No chalk - No new routes - No bivys - Respect the signs to protect nesting birds. - A full list can be assessed at the website of the city of Niedeggen
-
01
Kante4Very Poor
occasional fix piece, bolt or belay
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
02
Normalweg2Very Poor
occasional fix piece, bolt or belay
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
03
Neuer Einstieg3Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
04
Reibekuchen3Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
05
Orangetang5+
Most people start in route "Reibekuchen" and cross over at the first bolt.
Good+bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
06
Hunnendach5+
A lot of vegetation in the route. As well, the two old pegs are missing, there is no protection anymore.
NoneNo gear in place
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
07
Affenschaukel7+
You maybe want to use some gear to get the first bolt
Good+bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
08
Klammeraap7+
You maybe want to use some gear to get the first bolt
Good+bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
09
Faun6-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
10
Fiasko7Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
11
Prost5-Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
12
Direkter Einstieg Prost5Very Poor
occasional fix piece, bolt or belay
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
13
Ääpchen4Poor
belays always set up
8 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed
Bolting eats cash.
Writing topos eats time.
Say thanks and buy a beer for
Alex
Sector Details
There is a whole bunch of rules that have to be respected in order to prevent further climbing bans. The most important rules are: - Buy a climbing ticket (Details ticket sale) - No chalk - No new routes - No bivys - Respect the signs to protect nesting birds. - A full list can be assessed at the website of the city of Niedeggen
-
01
Feuerball7-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
02
Octopussy6+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
03
Stolberger Weg6-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
04
Monsterbond7+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
05
Kiefernwändchen links3Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
06
Kiefernwändchen Mitte2Very Poor
occasional fix piece, bolt or belay
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
07
Kiefernwändchen2Very Poor
occasional fix piece, bolt or belay
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
08
Flying Dutchman7-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
09
Rogallo7Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
10
Kampf um Troja6Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
11
Eilendorfer Riss4+None
No gear in place
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
12
Flaute7+Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed
Bolting eats cash.
Writing topos eats time.
Say thanks and buy a beer for
Alex
Sector Details
There is a whole bunch of rules that have to be respected in order to prevent further climbing bans. The most important rules are: - Buy a climbing ticket (Details ticket sale) - No chalk - No new routes - No bivys - Respect the signs to protect nesting birds. - A full list can be assessed at the website of the city of Niedeggen
-
01
Kamin2None
No gear in place
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
02
Marmelade5+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
03
Birne5+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
04
Fallobst7+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
05
Orange7Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
06
Saftriss5+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
07
Zitrone7-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
08
Boulderweg7
Do it toprope, no protection possiblity
NoneNo gear in place
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
09
Traube8Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
10
Banana Split8
Don't use the right edge
Good+bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
11
Kompottkante6Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
12
Apfelsinensteig4Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
13
Entsafter7+
Do it toprope, no protection possiblity
NoneNo gear in place
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
14
Obstsalat6+
Goes to the left and turns upwards at the third bolt of "Fallobst". Rather strange.
Good+bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed
Bolting eats cash.
Writing topos eats time.
Say thanks and buy a beer for
Alex
Sector Details
There is a whole bunch of rules that have to be respected in order to prevent further climbing bans. The most important rules are: - Buy a climbing ticket (Details ticket sale) - No chalk - No new routes - No bivys - Respect the signs to protect nesting birds. - A full list can be assessed at the website of the city of Niedeggen
-
01
Morgenwändchen7-
We forgot to take a picture. It starts two routes left of "Master of Desaster"
Good+bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
02
Lili6+
We forgot to take a picture. It starts one route left of "Master of Desaster"
Good+bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
03
Master of Desaster8+/9-
Old name apparently: "Direkte Südwestwand"
Good+bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
04
388-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear neededDieter Siegers , First ascent -
05
U387Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
06
Umleitung7-Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
07
Dr. No7-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
08
Mad Harry6+
Maybe take some gear for the lower part
Goodbolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
09
Goldfinger6Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
10
Fakir5+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
11
Grüne Welle5-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
12
Schöne Kante4
Starts on the little hilltop and then crosses over into the wall
Goodbolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
13
Müsliman6+
Starts on the little hilltop and then crosses over into the wall
Good+bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
14
James Bond6+
Starts on the little hilltop and then crosses over into the wall
Good+bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed
Bolting eats cash.
Writing topos eats time.
Say thanks and buy a beer for
Alex
Sector Details
There is a whole bunch of rules that have to be respected in order to prevent further climbing bans. The most important rules are: - Buy a climbing ticket (Details ticket sale) - No chalk - No new routes - No bivys - Respect the signs to protect nesting birds. - A full list can be assessed at the website of the city of Niedeggen
-
01
Normalweg3None
No gear in place
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
02
Dicke Flamme3Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
03
Indirekter Einstieg5Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
04
Schlummerrolle6-
The grading can be seen as historic. We think, the start was washed out and is somehow harder now.
Goodbolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
05
Direkter Einstieg5+Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
06
Lionel5Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
07
Cannabis im Schwarzwald6-Good
bolt every 4-6m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
08
Kurze Übung6-None
No gear in place
5 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed
Bolting eats cash.
Writing topos eats time.
Say thanks and buy a beer for
Alex
Sector Details
There is a whole bunch of rules that have to be respected in order to prevent further climbing bans. The most important rules are: - Buy a climbing ticket (Details ticket sale) - No chalk - No new routes - No bivys - Respect the signs to protect nesting birds. - A full list can be assessed at the website of the city of Niedeggen
-
01
Ein Jäger auf Sylt8-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
02
Der General7-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
03
Meister Propper7+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
04
Willy-Brandt-Riss8Very Poor
occasional fix piece, bolt or belay
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
05
Elendsplatte5-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
06
Craetio Dei7-Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
07
Linke Kaminwand3Very Poor
occasional fix piece, bolt or belay
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
08
Rechte Kaminwand3Very Poor
occasional fix piece, bolt or belay
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
09
Notbremse7Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
10
Wildes Kurdistan4+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
11
Kuckelbaum4+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
12
Hans-Wurst-Kamin3Very Poor
occasional fix piece, bolt or belay
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
13
Rechter Wandausstieg3Very Poor
occasional fix piece, bolt or belay
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed -
14
Narrenriss5+Good+
bolt every 2-4m, belays always set up
10 m Climbing metersTrad gear needed
Bolting eats cash.
Writing topos eats time.
Say thanks and buy a beer for
Alex